The setting is one of the most important decisions in any piece of jewelry. It determines how a diamond catches light, how secure it sits, how the finished piece feels on your hand or around your neck, and ultimately how the whole design reads. Two identical diamonds in two different settings will look like two completely different pieces.

Whether you're designing a custom diamond ring, choosing a diamond necklace, or building a one-of-one pendant, knowing your setting options puts you in control of the process. 

Settings that hold the
stone with metal claws.

Prong setting

The most common setting in fine jewelry. Metal claws — usually four or six — grip the diamond at its girdle and hold it above the band. Prong settings allow maximum light to enter the stone from all angles, which is why they produce the most brilliance and fire of any setting type. The tradeoff is exposure — prongs leave more of the diamond's surface unprotected, so they need periodic inspection to make sure the claws haven't loosened. Four prongs show more of the stone. Six prongs offer more security. Both are standard at Avianne for solitaire rings, stud earrings, and pendant center stones.

Cocktail / Martini setting

Named for its resemblance to a martini glass. Three or four prongs meet at a single point beneath the stone, creating a tapered base that lifts the diamond high off the band. The V-shaped underside gives the setting a distinctive profile from the side and maximizes the stone's visibility from every angle. A popular choice for statement rings and large center stones where you want the diamond to be the entire focus.

Tension setting

The diamond is held in place by the pressure of the metal band itself. The band is engineered with a gap that grips the stone at its girdle using spring tension, making the diamond appear to float between two ends of metal with no visible support. Tension settings are striking and modern, but they require precision engineering — the metal has to be calibrated to the exact dimensions of the stone.

Settings that wrap metal
around the stone.

Bezel setting

A continuous metal rim wraps around the entire girdle of the diamond, holding it in place with even pressure on all sides. Bezel settings are the most secure option — the stone is fully enclosed, making it extremely difficult to knock loose. They give a clean, modern look with a smooth border framing the stone. The tradeoff is that the metal rim blocks some light from entering the sides, so a bezel-set stone will have slightly less sparkle than a prong-set stone of the same quality. Avianne uses bezel settings frequently in custom pendants, dog tags, and pieces designed for daily wear where security matters.

Half / Partial bezel setting

A metal rim wraps around part of the diamond's girdle — usually two opposite sides — leaving the rest exposed. This is a middle ground between the full security of a bezel and the light performance of a prong setting. Half bezels give a contemporary, architectural look and work especially well with emerald cuts, baguettes, and other geometric stone shapes.

Cabochon setting

A specialized setting designed for cabochon-cut stones — gems with a smooth, rounded top and flat bottom rather than a faceted surface. The metal mount is shaped specifically to cradle the dome of the stone. Cabochon settings are common for sapphires, opals, turquoise, and other colored gemstones. Avianne uses cabochon settings in custom pieces that incorporate colored stones alongside diamonds.

Settings built into
the metal surface.

Channel setting

Stones are held between two parallel strips of metal — either individual bars between each stone or a continuous channel that runs the length of the row. Channel settings create a smooth, uninterrupted line of diamonds with no metal visible between the stones. This setting is standard for eternity bands, wedding bands, and diamond-lined bezels on custom watches. Because the stones sit below the surface of the metal, channel settings are also one of the most snag-resistant options.

Pavé setting

Small diamonds are set into tiny holes drilled directly into the metal surface, each held in place by micro-prongs or small beads of metal. The stones sit so close together that very little metal is visible, creating the appearance of a continuous diamond surface. Pavé is the backbone of most custom hip-hop jewelry — it's how Avianne covers the surface of pendants, custom chains, and statement pieces with wall-to-wall diamonds. The term comes from the French word for "paved," as in a cobblestone road. Micro-pavé is a finer version using even smaller stones for a tighter finish.

Flush / Gypsy setting

The diamond is set directly into the surface of the metal so the top of the stone sits level with the surrounding surface. No prongs, no rim — just a clean, flat finish with the stone embedded into the piece. Flush settings are extremely durable and low-profile, making them ideal for men's bands, signet rings, and pieces that need to be tough without sacrificing detail.

Settings that use multiple
stones together.

Halo setting

A center stone is surrounded by a ring of smaller diamonds, creating a frame that makes the center stone appear larger and adds extra brilliance around the edges. Halo settings are one of the most popular choices for diamond jewelry because they amplify the visual impact of the center diamond without requiring a significantly larger stone. Double halos — two concentric rings of smaller stones — push the effect even further.

Hidden halo setting

The halo of smaller diamonds is placed beneath the center stone rather than around it at the same level. From a top-down view, the ring looks like a clean solitaire. From the side, the hidden halo is visible — a ring of diamonds tucked under the center stone that catches light from angles you wouldn't expect. A subtle, modern detail that has become increasingly popular for engagement rings and custom pieces where the client wants something that reveals more the closer you look.

Cluster setting

Multiple smaller diamonds are grouped tightly together to create the visual impression of a single larger stone. Cluster settings offer significant visual impact at a lower price point than one large diamond of equivalent size. They're also used creatively in custom work to fill complex shapes and build texture across a pendant or ring surface.

Invisible setting

Diamonds are set edge to edge with no visible metal between them — the stones appear to float as a continuous surface. This is achieved by cutting grooves into the sides of each stone and sliding them onto a metal framework beneath. Invisible settings require extremely precise stone cutting and are among the most technically demanding techniques in jewelry making. When executed well, the result is a seamless diamond surface with no prongs, bezels, or metal interruptions visible from the top.

Which setting is right
for your piece?

It depends on what the piece needs to do. A daily-wear engagement ring needs security — bezel or channel. A statement pendant needs coverage — pavé. A solitaire needs brilliance — prong. A custom build with colored gemstones might combine cabochon settings for the colored stones with pavé diamonds across the rest of the surface.

At Avianne & Co., the setting conversation is part of every custom project. When you sit down at 28 W 47th Street or reach out online, the team walks through each option based on the stones you're working with, how you plan to wear the piece, and what visual effect you're going for.

The same team that has built custom pieces for Drake, Nicki Minaj, MrBeast, French Montana, Bobby Shmurda, and Justin Bieber uses these exact settings every day. Whether it's a solid gold chain, a diamond wedding band, or a fully custom one-of-one pendant — the setting is where the build starts.